J. FRANK DALTON, ROUTE 66 AND THE CAVE THAT THEY BOTH MADE FAMOUS
On April 3, 1882, outlaw Jesse James was shot to
death in St. Joseph, Missouri by Robert Ford, a member of Jesse’s gang. This
ended the life of one of post-Civil War America’s most famous outlaws – or did
it? According to a man named J. Frank Dalton, Jesse James actually faked his
death in 1882 and in 1949, he was still alive and well and living at Meramec
Caverns in Missouri. How did he know? Well, because Dalton claimed to be the
famous outlaw!
The story of J. Frank Dalton is inextricably tied
into the history of Meramec Caverns, a roadside attraction made famous by Route
66, the legendary “mother road,” which linked Chicago to Los Angeles and
inspired songs, stories, countless road trips and captured the imagination of
America. The story of the “man who would be Jesse James” is one of the weirdest
stories ever told about Route 66.
Vintage photo of the entrance to Meramec Caverns
To tell the story of J. Frank Dalton, we first have
to tell the story of Meramec Caverns, which became a familiar landmark along
Route 66 as it traveled west of St. Louis. Located just three miles off the
highway, down a twisting road that leads from the town of Stanton to the
Meramec River, the cave was commercially developed in the 1930s by Lester B.
Dill, a Missouri farm boy with the cleverness of P.T. Barnum. “I have put more
people underground and brought them out alive than anyone else,” Dill often
boasted and no one could dispute the claim.
Lester Dill was born in 1898 and was the second of
nine children. He was only six years old when his father, Thomas Benton Dill,
ventured into Fisher’s Cave, across the Meramec from the family farm, for the
first time. By the time he was 10, Lester, guided by a kerosene lamp, was
taking tourists from St. Louis on guided cave tours. Over the years, Dill
continued to explore the many caves of the Meramec Valley. Later, Dill and his
wife, Mary, followed the oil boom in Oklahoma, dabbled in Florida real estate
and then moved to St. Louis, where Lester worked a carpenter. In 1928, when his
father was appointed the first superintendent of the new Meramec State Park,
where Fisher’s Cave was located, Lester came back to the area. He signed a
contract with the state and launched a cave-guiding business, complete with
souvenirs and homemade food.
Lester Dill
A few years later, when the state contract expired,
and the country in the midst of the Great Depression, Lester began searching
for his own cave to develop. He finally decided to lease Saltpeter Cave, which
was just a few miles downstream from the park. Spaniard Hernando De Soto was
said to have discovered the cave in 1542 and a couple of centuries later, it
was explored by a French miner named Jacques Renault. During the 1800s, the
cave was used by saltpeter miners for storage and shelter and legend had it
that escaped slaves were sheltered there as they made their way to safety in
the northern states. There were also stories that outlaws, including the famous
Jesse James gang, found refuge in the cave and may have even left some of their
ill-gotten gains hidden somewhere inside.
The legends of the cave were important to Lester
but even more important was the cave’s proximity to Route 66, America’s most
traveled highway. Dill knew that if he got the word out, the tourists would
beat a path to his door. He renamed the new attraction Meramec Caverns and
hired a local sawmill crew to construct a road to the cave. Meramec Caverns
opened on Decoration Day (Memorial Day) 1933 and a total of six visitors paid
40 cents per person to follow Lester Dill through the damp passageways. It was
not a great start, but Lester was not worried. He eventually bought the property
and put almost every cent that he earned into improving and promoting the show
cave.
For the
first three years of the cave’s operation, the entire Dill family, including
the children, worked day and night. They even lived in a tent at the site. The
battled treacherous ice on the steep road between Route 66 and the cave
entrance and in the spring, built brick dikes to hold back the river and keep
it from turning the parking lot into a lake and flooding the cave entrance.
Visitors that managed to make it to the cave always
left with a Meramec Caverns sign tied to their bumper. School children that
were hired by Lester saw to it that a sign was attached to the bumper of each
and every automobile that stopped at the cave. Later, the job became easier
when adhesive was developed for the backs of the bumper signs. In 1940, while
he was exploring an unknown part of the cave, Lester found some rusted guns and
an old chest, which he claimed had belonged to none other than Jesse James.
Immediately, the words “Jesse James’ Hideout” was added to the bumper stickers.
A Meramec Caverns Barn, which are still around today
Besides the millions of bumper stickers attached to
cars and the brochures handed out to tourists, Lester promoted the cave by
posting signs, mostly painted on barns, along highways in as many as 40 states.
Lester and his crew scoured the countryside, especially along Route 66,
searching for just the right barns for their eye-catching signs. To entice the
farmers who owned the barns, Lester handed out watches, pints of whiskey, and
free passes to the cave.
During World War II, when gas rationing hit, Lester
went down Route 66 to Fort Leonard Wood, a large basic training camp, and
convinced the army to convoy troops to the cave for maneuvers. Hundreds of
soldiers camped in the river bottom and marched into the cave in full battle
dress. Every night, Lester through dances for the soldiers in the cave and gave
special rates to anyone in uniform.
Francena, one of Lester and Mary’s daughters,
married one of the soldiers – Rudy Turilli, a handsome Italian from New York.
After the war ended, Rudy became the general manager of the cave and handled
most of the promotion and publicity. It was Turilli who discovered a man named
J. Frank Dalton in 1949 who raised eyebrows by declaring that he was actually
Jesse James – but more about that soon.
One of the famous bomb shelter tickets issued by the cave
In the early 1950s, during a time when Americans
were preoccupied by the Cold War, Meramec Caverns became known as the “safest
bomb shelter in the world” when Lester and Rudy offered the cave to the
government as a haven from atomic blasts. He created a passage in the cave to
be used as a shelter and stocked it with rations and thousands of gallons of
water. Visitors paid to visit this part of the cave and as an ominous incentive
to return, were given tiny cards with the admission tickets – cards that
promised them a spot in the fallout shelter if the “Big One” ever hit.
Lester and Rudy never missed an opportunity to
promote the caverns and celebrities from Kate Smith and Pearl Bailey to Lassie
toured the “world’s only five-story cave.” In 1960, Lester dubbed a small nook
in the cave the “Honeymoon Room” and managed to get it featured on the Art Linkletter Show. For the show, they
dressed a honeymoon couple in leopard skins, confined them to the room and
promised them a free trip to the Bahamas if they could find a hidden key within
10 days. Each time a tour passed, the caveman couple were required to act out a
skit. The humiliation – and the publicity – lasted the full 10 days since
Lester and Rudy didn’t actually hide the key until day 10.
Toasted on network television shows and in the
press as “America’s Number One Cave Man”, Lester Dill died in 1980. Despite the
passing of the man who put Meramec Caverns on the map, the cave remains in
family hands and continues to draw big crowds every summer. The cave was an
icon on Route 66 and remains a permanent attraction after all of these years.
But it was the cave’s connection to Jesse James
that drew the most visitor’s over the years – especially when Jesse James
himself was alleged to take up residence there.
Outlaw Jesse James
There is no question that Jesse James was one of
the most famous outlaws in history. Born and raised in Missouri, Jesse rode
with Quantrill’s Raiders during the Civil War and unable to surrender after the
war ended, he, his brother and their gang of cousins and friends wreaked havoc
with banks and trains all over the Midwest. He remains an intriguing man,
portrayed as both a cold-blooded killer by Pinkerton detectives and a “Robin
Hood” rebel by friends and neighbors; he became a legend over the years. It’s
little wonder that the grave itself had trouble keeping Jesse James in it.
History states that Jesse was shot to death by Robert Ford on April 3, 1882 –
shot in the back while straightening a picture on the wall. But the official
account of Jesse’s death was just too mundane for his admirers to accept. In
1902, Jesse’s body was actually exhumed and reburied to make sure it was safe.
Less than five decades later, nearly a dozen old men came out of the woodwork,
each of them calling the corpse a counterfeit and each claiming to be the
authentic Jesse James.
One by one, most of their stories were shot full of
holes but one of them managed to capture the attention of Rudy Turilli, the
son-in-law of Meramec Caverns owner Lester Dill. Rudy had been fascinated by
the legend of Jesse James for more than 20 years. When all of the old men came
forward claiming to be Jesse, he discredited all of them – except for J. Frank
Dalton.
By 1948, Rudy was heir apparent to the caverns and
followed his father-in-law in proving that he knew how to promote the cave. He
and another fellow participated in a stunt that made world news. The two men
climbed the Empire State Building and threatened to jump off unless everyone in
the world went to Meramec Caverns! The authorities eventually talked them down.
Rudy and his friend spent nine days in jail but the story made newspapers all
over the country.
J. Frank Dalton -- the man who claimed to be Jesse James
When Dalton’s claim on the Jesse James name was
first reported in Lawton, Oklahoma, Rudy and Lester assumed that he was another
fraud. However, neither one of them was content with just ignoring the story.
Meramec Caverns had a huge investment in Jesse James. They had been promoting
the cave as Jesse James’ hideout for a number of years and the discovery of a
strongbox that had been taken during a James train robbery turned up in an
uncharted section of the cave seemed to offer proof of the story. If Jesse was
still alive, Rudy and Lester were determined to find him.
Rudy traveled to Oklahoma to meet Dalton and became
intrigued by what he found. The bedridden old man who claimed to be Jesse James
was winning over the skeptics. The press was starting to put its confidence
into print and no interviewer seemed able to poke a hole in his story. Most
interesting of all, the self-proclaimed outlaw had a reason why he’d kept
silent for so long. Dalton claimed that Robert Ford had actually shot Charles
Bigelow, another James gang member, in 1882. Bigelow’s brains were blown out
and he was buried under Jesse’s name so that the real outlaw (i.e. Dalton)
could live in peace. Missouri Governor Crittenden had been in on the ruse.
Dalton and the rest of the gang had made a pact to disclose their true
identities only after they reached the age of 100.
Rudy, still skeptical, examined Dalton with a magnifying
glass and was stunned to discover damage done to the old man’s body agreed with
reports or injuries sustained by Jesse James – from a mutilated tip on the left
hand index finger, to evidence of severe burns on both feet, a dropping right
eyelid, and bullet scars along the left shoulder, hairline and abdomen. If
Dalton wasn’t Jesse James, he’d groomed himself from head to toe, leaving out
nothing, to make himself appear that he was. Rudy began making arrangements to
bring Dalton to Stanton. He was planning a birthday celebration for the man
that he believed was the legendary outlaw.
During the planning, Dalton told Rudy to try and
track down some of the other living members of the gang and Rudy found John
Tramell, a cook. Rudy told the man that Jesse James wanted him to come to
Meramec Caverns for his 102nd birthday party, but Tramell swore that he didn’t
know the man. When Rudy went back to Dalton for an explanation, he was told
that since he didn’t know a secret password, Tramell wouldn’t talk with him.
When asked why he didn’t offer the password originally, Dalton said that he
wanted to make sure that Rudy could be trusted. Dalton gave him the password
and this time, when he returned to Tramell, the old man agreed to come to the
party.
Dalton was given a cabin on the Meramec Caverns
property where he could live. He drank heavily and gained an abiding hatred for
reporters. He was friendly with everyone else, but grew to despise reporters,
who bothered him day and night. Dalton asked for a six-shooter and would
actually shoot holes in the ceiling of his cabin to scare the reporters away.
Rudy and Lester became concerned that he might actually kill someone, so they
started taking the powder out of the bullets and replacing the lead. This plan
didn’t work well because Dalton picked up the bullets and knew they were light,
so he demanded a full load.
While Dalton was busy fending off reporters, Rudy
was working hard to secure Dalton’s legitimacy. Over the years, his faith in
Dalton led to him appearing on What’s My
Line? and The Tonight Show. Rudy
appeared in newspaper after newspapers and in men’s magazines, where he offered
$10,000 to anyone who could prove Dalton was a fraud. The story brought so much
publicity to Meramec Caverns that Rudy created his own tribute to Dalton in the
form of the Jesse James Wax Museum in Stanton.
Today, the museum still stands along Route 66 in
Stanton. Inside, life-sized figures of Dalton, Rudy Turilli, Cole Younger and
others greet visitors. Firearms that purportedly belonged to the James gang can
be found in glass cases and antiques like Frank James’ bathtub and a barber
chair in which Jesse received his last trim are on display. There are autopsy
photographs and a computer-enhanced projection that turns a 34 year-old Jesse
James into an elderly J. Frank Dalton, plus a study in 12-inch ears that
allegedly proves that the lobes of Dalton and Jesse James were a perfect match.
Before Dalton’s death, Rudy and Lester petitioned
the Franklin County Circuit Court to change Dalton’s name back to Jesse James.
With hat in hand, Dalton was carried into the courthouse on a stretcher. Judge
Ransom A. Breur dismissed the whole thing as the publicity stunt that it
probably was. He said: “There is no evidence here to show that this gentleman,
if he was ever Jesse James, has ever changed his name. If his name has never
been changed from Jesse James, he is still Jesse James in name, and there is
nothing for this court to pass on. If he isn’t what he professes to be, then he
is trying to perpetrate a fraud upon this court.”
What that, Lester and Rudy returned to Meramec
Caverns and J. Frank Dalton remained a mysterious and grumpy old man for the
remainder of his life. He died on August 16, 1951 during a visit to Granbury,
Texas. If he really was Jesse James, he was 103 years, 11 months and 10 days
old.
But was Rudy Turilli’s belief that J. Frank Dalton
was Jesse James actually correct?
In 1995, Professor James E. Starrs (a law
professor, not a forensic scientist) from George Washington University exhumed
the body of Jesse James that was buried in Kearney, Missouri – only one of two
gravesites of James. Based on DNA comparisons with living members of the James
family, it was ruled that the body in the grave was actually that of Jesse
James. Not surprisingly, though, there was a lot of controversy about the
findings, the quality of the evidence and why distant relatives were used for
the tests when Jesse’s mother, Zerelda, was buried nearby. Supporters of the J.
Frank Dalton claims scoffed at the findings and swore to produce their own
tests of Dalton’s remains.
At this time, the death of Jesse James and the
truth behind the tales of J. Frank Dalton remain a mystery...
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